Munsiari: Waterfalls, mountains and history

One of my favorite places in Kumaon Himalaya is the little town of Munsiari,in Pithhoragarh district. I've always maintained that HP has greener and more exotic spots than Kumaon, but Munsiari is definitely an exception.


We went to Munsiari for the first time in 2003. Baba was detremined to show me some unforgettable lands in India before I packed off to Amreeka. Our first pit stop was Nainital. But I've written enough about that! After stocking up on gas and supplies, we started off for our next pit-stop - Chaukori.



At an altitude of around 2100 mts, Chaukori is another exception to my HP is better rule. It offers a magnificent view of the Panchchuli peaks and brilliant Himalayan sunrises and sunsets. Forests of pine, oak and rhododendron are interspersed with cornfields, orchards and tea plantations. We usually stay at the KMVN log huts, very quaint, red roof-topped huts, good home-style food, no electricity at niggts making it conducive to non-stop anatakshari games and a tower that gives a magnificent view of the entire area. The stop at haukori is not mandatory Munsairi can be reached straight from Naini. But then, why would you want to miss such a pretty place!

Lots of people had warned us about the road to Munsiari - but compared to that to Manali, it was not too bad. The streams and waterfalls running into the only road does make it a bit dangerous but FUN (esp when you are not driving!). Munsiari is a quite hill town with an altitude of over 3000 m. The route to this town is as breathtaking as the town itself with huge ups and downs, curves and bumps, green hills, snow-covered mountains and huge waterfalls.

A less-known destination for most tourists, Munsairi is mostly visited just by trekkers as a base for their trek to Milam Glacier up to Malari, which is part of an old trade route to Tibet and China. But even if you are not the trekking kind, Munsiari is definitely worth a couple of visits.
Some of the things I remember from the trip are the famous "Martolia lodge" which serves authentic Kumaoni food and long term acco for foreigners. The dal chawal sabji meal in a glass room facing the himalayas was quite unforgettable! The food was nothing great but just the whole thing was quite something :)

Then the tiny market, where there is a high restuarant that serves just pakoras and chai, the tea shop where we sat and had Marie biscuit and chai, the NGO where we found a long-lost friend, the walk up and down spiralling roads with a sudden wild animal strolling by ( I think they were yaks)...